Sevilla: Quintessential Spain
Introduction
I had the wonderful privilege and opportunity of living in Sevilla for two glorious months. Sevilla is quintessential Spain. The siesta culture is still very much alive there. The entire city essentially shuts down midday to spend a few cherished hours with friends and family. It is the birthplace of flamenco dancing, Spanish tile, and bullfighting. It vibrates with passion, culture, and tradition. Of all the places that I have traveled to in Spain, Sevilla is the crown jewel.
Book your Private Walking Tour with Alcazar and Cathedral Tickets HERE
What to do
Because I lived in Sevilla for two months, I was granted the opportunity to see and experience most of the major tourist attractions, as well as going off the beaten path. I am going to rank the following experiences in order of most essential to least essential. I read many blogs and travel books that recommended activities that I do not believe are worth your time. This list will truly give you an understanding of the absolute best things to do while in Sevilla.
Book your Bike Tour of Sevilla HERE
Absolute Must Do’s
Plaza de Espana
Overlooking the Plaza
Plaza de Espana truly is a stunning piece of architectural achievement. It is located inside the beautiful oasis of Parque de Maria Luisa. I recommend that you go in the evening, as that is when it comes alive with singing and dancing. If you do not have the money to attend a flamenco show, then this is a great place to see the art form for free. Every night flamenco groups perform here for your viewing pleasure. During intermissions they will pass around an offering plate for anyone that is inclined to donate money. In addition to flamenco dancing, there will be musicians playing and singing traditional Spanish folk music. It is a great place to experience Spanish customs and traditions without having to pay money. You can pay to rent a boat and row around the canal that snakes its way through the plaza.
Tip: If you want good pictures of the Plaza, then you must go in the morning. The plaza is usually empty during the early morning hours, but gets progressively more crowded as the day progresses.
Beautiful Spanish Arches in the Plaza
Parque de Maria Luisa
One of the Many Duck Ponds in Maria Luisa
Parque de Maria Luisa is my favorite city park. This place became my safe haven. I would often go on morning walks through Maria Luisa as the city was waking from its slumber. It truly transports you out of the city and into a secret oasis. I would recommend you pack a picnic and take the time to explore the many hidden corners of the park. There are duck ponds, a hidden waterfall, diverse wildlife, and beauty lurking around every corner. My favorite time to visit Maria Luisa was in the morning, but the evenings are equally enjoyable, just with more people.
Book your Hop On Hop Off Bus Tickets HERE
One of the Many Beautiful Corners of Maria Luisa
Real Alcázar de Sevilla
The Gardens
A palace built for King Peter over the remains of the ancient Moorish fortress. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has the defining characteristics of ancient Moorish architecture coupled with Spanish flair. It also happens to be where the royal family of Spain resides when they visit Sevilla. The gardens were the star of the show for me. Peacocks roaming freely, a secret maze, gorgeous flowers, and secret corners everywhere. If you are a fan of architecture and beautiful gardens, then the Alcazar is a must.
Book your Alcazar and Cathedral Tickets HERE
Tip: If you book your time slot for a Monday evening online, then you can get in for a euro. The only downside is that you get a limited time slot. When the park closes for the evening you must leave. If you go during the day you can spend as much time in the Alcazar as you like, but you will pay 14 euros a ticket. If you are going to Sevilla on a budget then I would recommend booking in advance for a Monday evening.
Spanish Tile and Architecture
La Carbonera - Flamenco Bar
If you want the raw experience of a sweaty flamenco bar, then this is your place. It is intimate, grungy, and no a/c which makes the perfect recipe for a great flamenco show. The show is advertised as free but you have to purchase a drink or snack in order to watch it. It is important to know that there is absolutely no photography or videography allowed. If you bring out your cell phone and start snapping pictures/taking videos, then the show will be paused and you will be yelled at. This is their rule, so honor it while you are there. They do not really advertise when the shows are but I heard there are shows at 9:30 & 10:30 p.m. We went to the later show because I heard it was less crowded.
Book your Flamenco Show at Tablao Flamenco Pura Esencia HERE
Torres Garcia
I ate at more than a few places while in Sevilla, and this was the absolute best place. It is a Michelin recommended restaurant, which essentially means that it has exquisite food at a reasonable price. We had a four course meal that consisted of olives and bread as a starter, patatas bravas as an appetizer, cabbage with garlic sauce as our first course, and pumpkin pizza with burrata, dried tuna, and roasted tomatoes as our main course, and we both ordered a drink to go along with our meal. We desperately wanted dessert but did not possess the capacity to intake any more food. You might be thinking to yourself, “it sounds like you spent quite a lot of money”, then you would be wrong. The entire meal cost around 40 euros. That is one of the many reasons why I love Spain, great food is affordable.
Book your Tapas Crawl Tour HERE
Good Experiences
Alameda de Hercules
If you want a taste of local life, then this is your spot. This is where the locals escape to after work day is over. There are a number of cafes, restaurants, and shops for you to explore here. There is always an event happening if you are looking to meet people. The food is cheap and the atmosphere is lively.
Thursday Market in Casco Antiguo
Every Thursday morning there is a local market transpiring on the streets of the old town. It is a great place to pick up a souvenir from your time in Sevilla. The street is littered with stalls on both sides of the road selling antiques, spanish goods, and historical sevillian artifacts.
Palacio de las Dueñas
a beautifully adorned patio
This palace is of historical significance and is one of the crowning architectural buildings in Sevilla. It has housed many notable characters throughout history including Jacky Kennedy. It has distinct Moorish architecture that is typical throughout the southern region of Spain. The rooms are lavish, the courtyards are elegant, and the gardens are beautiful. If you want to know more about Spanish architecture, then this is your place.
El Centro
one of the main streets in el centro
This is the main hubbub of activity in the city. The streets are elegant, clean, and full of lively people. If you love shopping then you will love this section of the city. Many people go to Spain with empty suitcases because the price of things are infinitely cheaper than in their home country. This is also a good place to eat and people watch, but be warned that it will be more expensive.
Catedral de Sevilla
la Giralda and the Catedral de Sevilla
A Unesco world heritage Site, the fourth largest church in the world (largest gothic church in the world), and the supposed resting place of Christopher Columbus. In fact, there are many famous historical figures buried here including famous kings, princes, and religious figures. It is absolutely massive. You can fit football fields inside this church. I walked by the Catedral many times and always discovered something new. The exterior is adorned with fantastic artisanship that includes carvings of people, animals, and beautiful patterns. You can also tour the bell tower, the Giralda. It will offer you some amazing panoramic views of the city, but you will have to pay for it.
Book your Cathedral Tour Tickets HERE
Convento de Santa Inez
This convent sells goods baked by the nuns that reside there. You are not permitted to see the nuns, so to purchase the goods, you must ring a doorbell to get a nun’s attention. You tell the nun what you want (they have a list of things outside the small door), and then you slide your money through the door. She will put your change and items in the compartment where you will then collect them. They sell alfajores, borrachuelos, roscos fritos, mantecados de Estepa, Pestiños, and mantecados (my personal favorite). It is a great way to introduce yourself to andalusian desserts and have a truly unique experience.
Mercado de Triana
one of the many stands in the Mercado de Triana
Triana is the birthplace of flamenco dancing and Spanish tile. At the heart of Triana is the food market, Mercado de Triana. It is an indoor bazaar that sells all kinds of tasty foods. It is a great way to introduce yourself to andalusian cuisine and tapas. While you are at the market take a quick meander through Triana. Triana has some great Spanish tile shops for you to buy yourself a souvenir and take Spain back home with you.
Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice
Sevilla is littered with orange trees. Essentially, every grocery store sells fresh squeezed orange juice. It is not the fake orange juice that you find in U.S. grocery stores that has all kinds of added sugars. This is the real deal. Nothing added, just pure unadulterated orange juice. Sweet and delicious. Served year round. Go get you some.
Only If You Have Time
Las Setas
underneath the Setas de Sevilla
Translated, it literally means the mushrooms. Supposedly the largest wooden structure in the world. During my first month in Sevilla I passed this structure almost every single day, and it is just as cool to walk underneath it as it is to walk on top of it. You do not need to pay to go to the top if you are only in Sevilla for a short time. However, I did pay to access the top of the Setas during sunset and it was enjoyable. As the sun sets, music commences with a simultaneous light show. Having seen the light show numerous times, it is just as good from the bottom.
Plaza del Cabildo
This spot is extremely instagrammable but can get quite crowded. It is simply just a picturesque plaza located in el centro. It has gorgeous Spanish arches and a beautiful fountain. If you find yourself near the cathedral then pop on over for a quick look.
Caixa Forum
Essentially, it is just a shopping mall. There is better shopping in the el centro, so just stick to the old town if you want to shop. It is also located a bit outside the city center and is not worth the trouble traveling to it. It is a cool shopping mall, but if you are short on time it is not that important to go here.
Bonus Experiences
These are completely dependent on when you visit Sevilla. They only happen during specific times of the year.
Ascension of Mary
This is a celebration of the ascension of Mary, the mother of Jesus. It takes place on the evening of August 14, and the following day is recognized as a public holiday. We stumbled upon this by accident. After working all day in the apartment we decided to go on an evening walk about town. As we were walking towards el centro we heard loud, thunderous drums echoing for what seemed like miles. Curiosity got the better of us and we followed the loud noises. To our surprise we found a large entourage of drummers. We watched in amazement for some time and then noticed a large crowd making their way down a side street. So we followed them, and they eventually led us to a plaza. There the entourage of drummers met up with a band of wind instruments, and the magic began. It was the most beautiful display of music I have ever witnessed. This procession of stunning music made its way down the streets of Sevilla inch by inch, while being led by a banner of Mary herself. It was one of the greatest spectacles I have ever witnessed. You can get a glimpse of the spectacle on my Instagram stories here: https://www.instagram.com/mattsmemoirs/
Festival of Nations
This is a celebration of nations and their unique cultures. It begins in late September and ends in late October. During the day admission is free and you can access all kinds of different foods ranging from Brazil to Germany. In addition to food there are many stalls selling local and foreign artisanal goods. In the evening, they have stellar performances ranging from flamenco, singing, dancing, and band performances.
Conclusion
Sevilla is a dream. It is full of passion, beautiful customs, and life. If you want to experience a culture where the priority is quality of life and happiness, then you must visit Sevilla. I loved my time there and miss it tremendously.
